Let's be real: Effortless beauty is somewhat of a myth. Oftentimes, that "no makeup" makeup or "perfectly imperfect" hair takes just as much—if not more—legwork than going full glam. So when I saw "ghost waves" (a term coined by hairstylist Tom Smith) popping up all over social media as a low-maintenance summer hair trend, I thought there was no way they could be that easy to achieve. Barely there bends? Sounds fabulous, but my curls have more of an energetic presence, so I'd likely need multiple hot tools to create that texture—a task that doesn't seem very effortless at all.
Because I was a bit hesitant, I asked Smith himself how every hair type—from pin-straight strands to dense coils—can master the ghost waves trend at home, and it turns out, this breezy style is as unfussy as it seems. Scroll ahead for his in-depth tutorial.
What Are Ghost Waves, and Why Are They Trending Right Now?
Smith describes the style as "soft, barely there, S-shaped waves." They're effortless and undone, evoking the laid-back, '70s-inspired energy of a billowy boho dress. In fact, celebrities like Sienna Miller, Zoe Saldaña, and Daisy Edgar-Jones have all paired their ultra-boho Chloé dresses with understated ghost waves in the past year. Let it be known: Boho chic is back, and a free-spirited chiffon moment calls for an equally floaty hairstyle to match.
"The term comes from the fact that it's an undetectable technique," Smith explains. "Rather than being able to say, 'Oh, those are GHD curls,' or 'That's a curling-iron wave,' or 'That's a blowout,' it's a hidden technique, so you can't quite see how it's been done. It also [has] a whisper of texture rather than a shout. … The ghost wave speaks to that person who [loves] a quiet luxury [aesthetic], as opposed to the mob wife from last year."
This all being said, ghost waves are way more versatile than you think. Yes, they are technically categorized by slight, undetectable bends in the hair, but you can also simply lean into your natural texture for your own version of effortless, boho-inspired strands. The only general "rule" is to secure a middle part, as that tends to read breezier. "But it doesn't have to be a perfect middle parting," Smith caveats. "It can be something that's a little bit more irregular, which leans into that effortless look."
Ghost Waves Inspiration
Sienna Miller is arguably the queen of boho-inspired ghost waves.
Here, a curlier version of ghost waves. The natural middle part reads quintessential boho.
Zoe Saldaña paired her Chloé ensemble with flowy ghost waves at the 2024 Met Gala.
This ensemble from Daisy Edgar-Jones is the boho blueprint in every way.
Pictured: Perfectly tousled waves from Laura Harrier.
Ghost waves + mermaid braids = the perfect pairing.
So is a wavy French bob situation à la Halle Berry.
Add a few face-framing layers for some natural dimension, like Jodie Comer did here.
How to Achieve Ghost Waves at Home
"There are two approaches I would take," Smith notes. "There's an air-dry version and a hot-tool version for each hair type." Find all his tips for both ventures below.
Air-Dried Ghost Waves
Straight Hair Types
For those with straighter strands (hair types 1a to 2a), braids will be your best friends. "Braiding the hair can work really well if we're working on a thicker straight hair type," Smith shares. "Finer, straight hair types tend to look a little bit crimped if you braid them." If you do have finer locks, just keep the braids really loose to encourage more relaxed bends.
Before braiding, prep your strands with lightweight hydrators (think leave-ins and sea salt sprays) to moisturise without weighing down the waves. Braid the hair—either two pigtails or one larger plait—and leave them on overnight. "I wouldn't sleep with it completely wet in a braid, because it just won't dry," Smith shares. (That's where the lightweight sprays come in handy to encourage a bit of texture as it air-dries.) When you wake up, "a little impression of a bend can come into the hair," he shares.
Wavy-Curly Hair Types
"Those with any kind of wave or loose curl can achieve ghost waves quite easily," declares Smith. "There's a natural ghost wave underlying in the hair; it's just about how you prep."
That said, the exact prep steps will differ depending on your exact curl type (from 2b to 3a). "If your natural waves drop out quite easily, prepping the hair with a light-moisture, strong-hold product—like a hair mousse or a gel—is the best way to start," Smith suggests. "[That's] going to be the right consistency to encourage the texture contract and get a little bit stronger." Simply scrunch in your mousse or gel of choice into freshly washed, towel-dried hair without brushing it through, and let it air-dry.
Once your waves are completely dry, scrunch once again with your fingertips to eliminate any crispiness. "Then I would simply put your head upside down and spray through some texture spray to loosen it up and get that fluffy haze to it," adds Smith. If you find that your waves still haven't contracted as much as you'd like, you can add some styling powder to give them more body; focus the powder on your roots, gently working it through your hair to encourage volume.
If your waves or curls don't have as much trouble holding their shape, "the only difference is to use stronger moisture and lighter hold," explains Smith. Think creams, oils, and balms—anything super nourishing that has a bit of weight to it. "Brush that through the texture, and then shake it without scrunching," Smith instructs. Let the hair air-dry, and do your best not to touch it (tempting as it may be). "Letting it fully air-dry will lock the texture in. You can shake and fluff it up as much as you want once it's dry, and you'll have a bit more control over the result," he adds.
Curly Coily Hair Types
For curly, coily hair, natural ghost waves will have more than an undetectable bend. "If you want the Miley Cyrus [circa 2010] sort of ghost wave, then you would need to get a silk press first, straighten [the hair] all out, and then bend the waves in." That said, the ghost waves trend can also just refer to an air-dried wash-and-go, so you can adapt it to your curl pattern. According to Smith, those with tighter textures can achieve a curlier version of ghost waves by doing a two- or three-strand twist-out.
Again, you'll want to prep freshly washed hair with moisturising creams, oils, and balms. You can also gently pre-stretch the strands with your fingers or a paddle brush before twisting your hair section by section. "The bigger the sections you take, the looser you're going to make the wave," Smith notes. Leave them overnight, and then unravel the twists once the strands are completely dry. [It's] a curlier version of ghost waves, and it's much kinder and gentler to the texture," Smith notes.
Ghost Waves Using Hot Tools
The boho trend is all about embracing your natural texture, but you can feel free to use hot tools to secure a more uniform result. After a generous spritz of heat protectant (always!), straighten your full head of hair however you please (be it a silk press, blowout, or quick rough-dry), and then grab a hair straightener. Smith recommends the Dyson Corrale, as you can easily create flat-iron waves without the hassle of a cord.
Bend the hair in sections, pausing in between each pass. "Bend it one direction, as if you were about to make a curl, then let the hair drop out. Wait for a second so it cools slightly, and then pick that same strand up, turn the opposite direction, pausing again, turning it the opposite direction." Smith instructs. Essentially, you'll want to create the impression of a wave instead of a full curl. The number of sections you style will depend on your hair's thickness and texture, but remember that the waves are supposed to be irregular—nothing too perfect.
To make things even easier, he says you can also grab a two- or three-pronged waver to create those impressions. "The trick there is [using] really big, irregularly shaped sections," he shares, praising GHD's Triple Barrel Waver. "It's a really big, chunky one, and [the barrels] are slightly cornered rather than completely round, so it gives a more natural-looking wave."
After you've waved to your liking, shake the hair out without brushing it. "Brushing it is going to make it too puffy," Smith says. Curling wands can also come in handy if you need a refresh. Just make sure you wrap sections irregularly so they don't look too overdone.
This post originally appeared on What Who Wear US.
