Heritage, But Make It Hot: Hermès Spring 2026 Delivers Utility With a Sophisticated and Sultry Edge

Nadège Vanhee, who has now spent a full decade as creative director at the French fashion house, clearly understands the Hermès woman and her desires. For her S/S 26 ready-to-wear collection, presented today at Paris Fashion Week, she showcased just that—focusing on heritage with a fresh twist. And the response was overwhelmingly positive. Fans took to social media to express their enthusiasm. "Best runway thus far in Paris Fashion Week," wrote one commenter on Vogue Runway’s Instagram. Another raved on Outlander Magazine’s post: "This is what I want to wear every day. 10/10 collection."

The collection had little—if anything—to do with the iconic Birkin bag, the very symbol most people associate with the brand (and a safer investment than gold, some say). Instead, all eyes were on the clothes, the styling, and the setting. As for the latter, the show took place at the Garde Républicaine—the historic home of the military corps responsible for protecting the city of Paris. There, Hermès presented a collection of 57 looks that paid homage to the modern-day equestrian.

The first look, which consisted of a brown leather bodice harness layered under a leather-and-canvas long coat, paired with leather Bermuda shorts and matching riding boots, set the stage. There were also silk scarves, nodding to the carrés, which were introduced in 1937, styled in every way except the expected. The color palette stayed true to Hermès's refined aesthetic, with muted tones of beige, brown, navy, and black, accented by pops of red, plum, and tangerine. It all worked so well because of how innately Vanhee understands the house—and how she continues to master and honor its legacy of craftsmanship while pushing it forward. Ahead, more on Vanhee’s spring 2026 collection for Hermès.

A Sandy Walk

Yes, Hermès's equestrian spirit was embedded not only in the clothing but also in the scenery, which reinforced the narrative. The floors were fully covered in sand. This setting reminded viewers of riding arenas, where sand serves as the primary footing material, offering excellent traction to prevent slipping for horses. In this context, the sand grounded the models' feet, which were finished with riding boots.

Soft Armor 

Every equestrian needs protective gear to protect themself against nature's elements or unexpected falls. In Hermès' spring collection, Vanhee reimagined this concept of armor. Instead of traditional riding helmets, gloves, or vests, the collection showcased leather pieces ranging from maxi skirts and trousers to midi dresses and padded tops with collars. Harnesses worn over the chest added a sense of purpose and power, while utility-inspired buckles on suspender-style pants and skirts created a blend of functionality and style.

New It Boots

Hermès's Oran sandals, featuring the signature "H" cutout, will face competition next spring and summer. In the collection, 55 out of 57 looks showcased the same riding-style boots. These knee-high boots featured an asymmetrical collar, also known as a Spanish topline, and sleek lines. Some models paired the all-black leather version with leather dresses, pencil skirts, and playsuits, while others styled the brownish-green leather version with Bermuda shorts, long suede skirts, and leather shorts. The collection also included a white leather version, embossed styles, all-suede options, and pairs that combined canvas with leather. Clearly, there is a pair to suit any Hermès woman.

Everything But the Birkin

Of course, the Hermès show had to include two Birkins—one in an elegant tan suede finish and another in a classic brown-and-white leather combination. But for the most part, it was refreshing to see the brand step away from the signature style and introduce new bag silhouettes for spring. One standout was a horseshoe-shaped shoulder bag, which models carried in their hands rather than over their shoulders. It featured the brand's signature clasp hardware and came in rich tones like tan, dark green, burgundy, and black. There were also sleek leather bucket bags shown in grained black leather, smooth black leather, and even an oversize canvas-leather mix, carried by model Alex Consani. Other highlights included a floral silk top-handle bag—perfect for a night out and a playful way to brighten up an all-black outfit—and a compact bowler-style bag that came in shades like mustard yellow, cherry red, and chocolate brown.

Prints! 

The spring 2026 fashion month is almost over, and unsurprisingly, we've seen a lot of prints. For example, in New York, Khaite showed polka dots, and in London, Simone Rocha's collection featured soft and dainty florals, which appeared on long shift dresses and sheer bubble skirts. In Milan, Missoni's show highlighted its famous colorful chevron, and in Paris, Hermès's collection featured various prints. A scarf-inspired red-and-beige motif was featured on skirt sets, dresses, and outerwear, as well as navy stripes on scarves and bustier tops. Another look, which included a button-up shirt paired with high-waisted shorts, featured an enlarged navy-and-black plaid pattern.

Not Just a Silk Scarf

Hermès's silk scarves are loved for their versatility, often worn knotted around the neck or tied on a Birkin handle. For the spring 2026 show, though, the brand showcased its scarves in some delightfully unexpected ways. First, we noticed it rolled up and intertwined with a chain necklace, creating an elegant choker. Later, it was wrapped around the back of the neck with fabric draping on the front, styled beneath a harness to create a chic top. Additionally, the scarf was tied around a belt loop, adding delicacy to the leather accessory and offering an elegant twist on the scarf belts that insiders have been favoring.