The first time I felt an uncomfortable itch and sore scalp was a few years back when I was at school. After weeks of feeling bogged down with worries about the future, I sat in a GP's office, where I discovered a name for this persistent pain: seborrheic dermatitis. Seborrheic dermatitis is more commonly known at adult cradle cap and is a skin condition that mainly affects your scalp. This type of dermatitis can cause scaly patches, inflamed skin and stubborn dandruff, and it usually affects oily areas of the body like the scalp.
Aside from the irritating symptoms of seborrheic dermatitis, one of the biggest downsides of the condition is the constant dryness, especially for someone with afro-textured hair. Afro hair relies on moisture to remain balanced and healthy, yet many treatment plans for adult cradle cap fail to consider this. "For a long time, healthcare professionals and researchers have been missing a simple tool in their toolboxes that allows for even the simplest task of even accurately describing skin colour, which in turn has led to historic issues with accurate diagnosing, culturally conscious treatment plans and the overall amount of self-advocacy that is expected of Black and Brown women in these spaces,” says Ophelia Dadzie, MD, chair of the British Association of Dermatologists Lexicon Group.
Moving away from constantly styling my hair, opting for lower-tension hairstyles and no longer following practices like oiling my scalp, which, according to trichologist Ebuni Ajiduah, "can also contribute to skin conditions and make scalp symptoms much worse," were hard adjustments despite the fact they inevitably helped get my scalp back to normal.
According to Ajiduah, "the body works by continually monitoring its environment and adjusting its response, so when we grease or oil our scalp, effectively we are telling the sebaceous glands to kick back, and we will handle it. That would be okay if we didn’t have a whole system designed to do it already, and the products we use [to treat the condition] matched the natural secretion and were not harmful. These products are mostly relics because people have realised that the ingredients, such as petroleum and mineral oil, generally do not help and may even harm in the long term. The naturalista of today is more likely to use oil or butter, but the same problems still arise."
Almost a decade on, there are some days when navigating seborrheic dermatitis flare-ups whilst trying new hairstyles and products often feels disheartening. Along with each new style, or let's be honest, new adult stressors, there remains the fear that another flare-up is on its way. However, now, when faced with a sore-to-the-touch scalp or seemingly never-ending outpouring of white flakes firmly at the cross section of the crown, I have a handful of products I rely on to help get my scalp back to normal.
Scroll to discover the seborrheic dermatitis–friendly products I love, as well as the buys I turn to again and again to help rehydrate my hair.
The seborrheic dermatitis–friendly products I rate:
1. Omorovicza Revitalising Scalp Mask
I am the biggest fan of the Omorovicza Scalp Mask; the biggest fan is me. Although I am proudly no longer a major afro-hair-product obsessive, when life gets busy, product build-up on my scalp often follows. Stress may be one of my triggers, but I find that even with the smallest uptick in product build-up, the symptoms of seborrheic dermatitis start to appear. In order to decongest my scalp—icky word, I know—I reach for this mask with its cooling menthol (instant soother) and gently exfoliating salicylic acid. It's number one at keeping the feeling of SD at bay.
2. Healpsorin Shampoo
Sometimes, especially when it comes to tackling skin conditions, a medically backed approach is best. Although over the counter, when it comes to controlling the symptoms of adult cradle cap Hermz's Healpsorin Shampoo is unmatched. Think the now beloved Acnecide but for your scalp.
3. Pattern Beauty Scalp Serum
There's no such thing as a perfect natural. However, as a "naughty" natural afro hair gal who actively uses heat on her coils and loves (on occasion) tiny cornrows, I turn to a soothing serum with a calming mix of rosemary, peppermint and lavender: Pattern's Scalp Serum. It has become my go-to itch scratcher in a bottle.
Products I love to use to rehydrate my hair:
In my experience, once a flare-up on the scalp has cleared—especially after using prescribed steroid treatments—dry and brittle hair is almost inevitable. For someone with afro-textured hair, I know that moisture and nourishment from the scalp to the ends is vital for both growth and the overall health of the hair.
So both during and after a flare-up of an adult cradle cap, having super-hydrating washday options to hand is essential.
1. Oribe Gold Lust Transformative Masque
This is the crown jewel of hair masks. I've tried a fair few over the years (read: more than a few), so trust me when I say this mask is a one-stop hydration station kind of deal. After a flare-up, I tend to lean towards effective and luxurious products to give my coils some much-deserved TLC, so this wonderful scent—thanks to the inclusion of white tea, baobab and jasmine extracts in formulation—alongside Oribe’s coil-friendly bio-restorative complex really is the the best of both worlds.
2. Davines Love Curl Shampoo
After weeks of navigating dry scalp and hair post-adult cradle cap flare-up, a nourishing 25-minute wash with Davines shampoo (and the accompanying conditioner) is just the thing to put all the world to rights.
3. Wakati Re-Activating Conditioning Mist
Although steroid treatments are sometimes necessary in order to help fully tackle cases of adult cradle cap, rebalancing the moisture in my hair after a particularly dry spell is most definitely a process. Scalp-wise, explains Ajiduah, "the body works by continually monitoring its environment and adjusting its response, so stay away from using product that disrupt the whole system designed to bring moisture the scalp."
But when it comes to the hair itself, I love using a super-hydrating spray like Wakati conditioning mist as a moisture boost for my thirsty coils.
4. Bread Beauty Supply Hair-Oil: Everyday Gloss
Right, all together now, let's say it: Oil belongs on hair, not the scalp. Oil belongs on hair, not the scalp. Repeat until emblazoned in your mind.
Although many people with afro-textured hair (myself included) would have grown up surrounded by mothers, aunties and others all religiously touting the importance of "greasing your scalp," adding oil-based products can exasperate a condition such as seborrheic dermatitis. Luckily, lightweight oils like this heavenly scented option from Bread Beauty Supply (when applied to hair) mean you don't have to swear off oils forever.
5. Imbue Scalp Massage and Shampoo Brush
For the itch that you most definitely cannot scratch—or risk the painful revealing of scabs and then subsequent soreness—this silicone shampoo massager is perfect for cutting through product build-up, a factor that often contributes to sebum build-up and the return of adult cradle cap symptoms.
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