Matilda Djerf's Guide to Stockholm: The Best Pasta, the Coziest Hotel, and More

Welcome to Locals Only. In this series, we're tapping notable locals in the style space to share a tight list of their top recommendations of what to see, eat, and shop in their home city. They'll share off-the-radar recs that you won't find in your average guidebook, resulting in digestible mini guides revealing where the city's most fashionable residents are actually hanging out.

When we first decided to cover Stockholm for our newest installment of Locals Only, there was no doubt about the expert we wanted to tap: Matilda Djerf. Far and away our top pick, the Djerf Avenue founder graciously said yes to curating a travel guide exclusively for Who What Wear. She shared her favorite spots in the Swedish capital, including a cozy hotel that feels like a home away from home, the premier pasta restaurant, her favorite florist, and more.

"I'm originally from Borås, a small town in Sweden," Djerf told Who What Wear. "I moved to Stockholm in December 2019, so I've been here four years now." If you're one of Djerf's 3.1 million Instagram followers, you're already familiar with her impeccable style, her sharp business acumen, and her covetable hair. But now, you get to familiarize yourself with her 16 favorite spots in Stockholm. Keep scrolling for her full travel guide, as told to Who What Wear.

When I asked about how she spends her days off in Stockholm, Djerf's answer was supremely relatable. "I try to have as little plans as possible on my days off since my everyday schedule is so fully booked," she told me. "Slow mornings are my absolute favorites. Drinking coffee in bed for hours, a longer walk with [my dog] Rufus and [my boyfriend] Rasmus, and then preferably an easy but enjoyable breakfast from my favorite café or made at home." How heavenly does that sound?

Expounding upon the true star of her Instagram—her adorable dog Rufus—Djerf told me that she'd love Stockholm to become even more dog-friendly: "Many restaurants allow you to bring your dog, but many stores don't, which makes it difficult when I walk home from work with Rufus and realize I need to buy milk." However, Djerf obviously wouldn't trade being a dog mom for anything. "Having a dog in the city is the biggest blessing," she said. "It forces you to get out more, regardless of the weather, and it's so fun to explore new places together."

What to Pack

Named one of Matilda Djerf's favorite hotels in Stockholm, Ett Hem is the best booking if you want a home-away-from-home experience. The property consists of three private houses turned into cozy, peaceful accommodations. Don't miss the charming patio and the restaurant that's also open to non-guests for lunch and dinner. With one look at Ett Hem's Instagram, you'll understand why Djerf named it one of the best spots in the city.

Eagle-eyed followers might recognize this restaurant from Djerf's Instagram. Symbios serves up a mix of French and Swedish dishes for lunch and dinner. Located in SoFo, part of the trendy Södermalm neighborhood, the restaurant is closed on Sundays. Take a peek at its Instagram account for a glimpse at some of the best dishes and wine selections on the menu.

When asked about her favorite vintage shop in Stockholm, Djerf couldn't pick just one. She named two as her top spots. "I think Lotta Vintage is good, and at Humana, I have found some cute vintage shoes for our Djerf Avenue shoots," she told Who What Wear. Both shops offer a mix of clothing, bags, shoes, scarves, and more. You can expect to find designer labels and unbranded pieces at these cute, colorful stores.

Stockholm's premier pasta joint is Gazza, according to Djerf. She named the restaurant as one of her favorite places to grab dinner, but Gazza also offers breakfast and lunch. The restaurant is located in Södermalm and is only a 20-minute walk from the center of Gamla Stan, also known as Stockholm's Old Town.

I'm no mathematician, but I'd venture to say that 40% of Djerf's Instagram posts include flowers of some kind. Whether she's displaying them in her Djerf Avenue office or transporting a bouquet through the streets of Stockholm, it's clear Djerf loves surrounding herself with flowers. When asked to name her favorite florist in the Swedish city, Djerf was quick to say Pick a Flower, which has a broad assortment of roses, daisies, peonies, and more.

"Haga Park [aka Hagaparken] is close by but still far enough to feel like you're not in the middle of the city anymore," Djerf said. "I also love walking around in general, where the focus is just about breathing in, breathing out, finding new places to explore, and eventually sitting down for a drink." The lush grounds include Haga Palace, where Crown Princess Victoria lives with her family. The tent-like structure pictured above is actually made of copper and houses the Haga Park Museum.

"I love antikvariat stores," Djerf told me. "There are a few different ones like Antikvariat Rönnells, Antikvariat Strix, and Halléns Antikvariat. There's something about a bookstore and something even more special about flipping through pages that have lived previous lives." Isn't that the truth?

You may remember Djerf posting about Grand Hôtel Stockholm earlier this year. "The suite life of Matilda" was her caption on a series of pajama-clad photos with a room-service cart. Pictured above, she also posed in one of the chic guest rooms wearing a black matching set. According to Michelin, the five-star hotel located on the harbor "is the place to stay if you're a Nobel Prize winner, foreign dignitary, or just an everyday movie star." Having first opened in 1872, it boasts over 150 years of history.

"When I'm in Sweden, I always crave bagels," Djerf told Who What Wear. "Café Frankfurt has bagels as close to American as I can find. I haven't found New York–style bagels yet. There's a gap in the market in Stockholm for this!" Are you listening, Swedish entrepreneurs? The cute café is located on the island of Kungsholmen.

Agnes also made Djerf's list of the top dinner spots in Stockholm. Situated close to the previously mentioned Café Frankfurt on the island of Kungsholmen, Agnes's menu includes short ribs, deep-fried artichokes, scallops, croquettes, and plenty of cheese and charcuterie.

"I love Ugo Espressobar on Kungsholmen [island]," Djerf said. "I spent my first years in Stockholm living on Kungsholmen and randomly stumbled upon this gem. The tuna-egg sandwich is to die for." Duly noted!

Searching for the best wine bar in Stockholm? According to Djerf, look no further than Grus Grus Vinbaren. The extensive wine list includes bottles from a mix of smaller and more established wineries worldwide. As for the ever-evolving dinner menu, expect small plates meant for sharing and local Swedish produce.

"Komet on Kungsholmen [island] has great croissants and makes special flavors every now and then," Djerf said. My mouth is watering just looking at these photos.

Djerf said Riche is Stockholm's number one spot for traditional Swedish meatballs. Serving French food with a Scandi twist, Riche was founded in 1873. The restaurant's current fall menu includes pumpkin risotto, beef tartare, Swedish T-bone steak, French fries, and, of course, meatballs. It's an eight-minute walk from the previously mentioned Grand Hôtel Stockholm.

"Ett Bageri has the best buns," Djerf said. It's one of her top spots for fika, which is a Swedish tradition of taking a break to enjoy coffee and a sweet treat. Oh, how I wish corporate America would adopt this relaxing practice.

Here's the full list—screenshot away!