Welcome to Out of Office… Who What Wear UK's chic travel guide that provides you with the most stylish take on any given destination by tapping creatives who know where to stay, what to eat and, more importantly, which items to pack. This month, editor Rebecca Rhys-Evans shares her tips for a memorable trip to Northern Sweden.
I know at this time of year, everyone is pretty relieved to get rid of the winter. Warmer weather, lighter layers, holidays! Garden parties! There’s so much to love about spring. But at the ripe age of 32, I’ve cracked the secret code to really loving the winter months, and it’s simple: winter getaways. By this, I don’t mean enjoy a few weeks of winter sun in February in Mexico or the Caribbean. I mean seek out destinations that embrace the cold and all this season has to offer. Think snowy landscapes, cosy cottages with a roaring fire, winter sports, ice activities and Nordic cuisines. There’s really nothing like it in order to change your perspective on the days that fall between January to March. In other words, don’t waste your time wishing for spring; enjoy these quieter, cooler months for what they are.
I had this brilliant realisation on a rather sensational trip to Sweden in January with Volvo. They invited me over there to test drive their latest vehicle, the EX90, a very sexy, electric-powered car that drives as impeccably as it looks, even in the snow, and even with me driving it. On this quick getaway my eyes were opened to so much more than driving an electric car (but more on that later), I got to experience a literal winter wonderland, in a place that I otherwise would never have been.
This was my first time in Sweden, although I have Swedish heritage and have always wanted to go, I’d always figured my first jaunt would be to Stockholm or Gothenburg, the home of Acne Studios, IKEA, H&M—brands I can’t imagine my life, style and home without. I’d never really considered Northern Sweden—specifically Harads—which is in Swedish Lapland, on the very edge of the Arctic Circle, and home to the Northern Lights and a lot of reindeer.
Here, I got to really indulge in nature, switch off in a way that I haven’t since a time before the internet (literally!), and relish in an authentic Swedish menu, devouring traditional meals made with locally-sourced produce. Then of course, there was the accommodation, which again, was like no other! Individual cabins built on a large arctic lake, which is of course frozen at this time of year, meaning you look over a vista of pure white, with nothing to hear but the sounds of the ice moving at night.
So, if you’re one of those people who pines for spring, let me rebrand winter for you. Let me introduce you to this spectacle that is Northern Sweden in the depths of January, with my guide of where to stay, what to eat, what to do and, naturally, what to drive (spoiler: it’s a Volvo EX90).
1. WHERE TO STAY
I was treated to a stay at Arctic Bath; a small, luxury hotel and spa famous for its positioning on the Lule river in Swedish Lapland and its large cold bath.There’s a main hotel ‘hub’ if you will in the centre of the site, which hosts the restaurant, spa and a small reception area, then accommodation for guests are individual cabins with a contemporary, cosy and, most importantly, comfortable design. Be it the log burners in each room or the large window above the bed so you can enjoy the view, no detail is spared to ensure ultimate relaxation and enjoyment. Each season has something different to offer in terms of experience. In summer you can swim in the river outside your cabins, but with the well-equipped spa that has a sauna, steam room, hot tub and of course, the cold bath for those that dare, there’s still plenty to do in the colder months.
2. HOW TO GET ABOUT
Driving a Volvo in Sweden is like riding a Vespa in Rome, it’s just a given. I’d never had the pleasure of driving an electric car before, so this was quite the experience. The EX90 is Volvo’s fully electric, highly premium 7-seater SUV. You’d think driving in such snowy and icy conditions would be anxiety-inducing, but not in the EX90—it’s so solid, so safe and, once you get to know the car and how it works, is very easy to use. Most of all, it’s a pleasure to get around in. Not only does it have a battery power that can drive up to 375 miles, only take 30 minutes to charge and have all the gadgets (think 5G wifi, Google built-in and extremely powerful sound system from Dolby Atmos through the Bowers & Wilkins speakers), it’s built with innovative radars and cameras making it arguably the safest car on the road. Volvo showcased this vehicle’s security and speed on an ice track, where I test-drove it even on the most difficult terrains and conditions I’ve ever driven in before. Let me tell you, there wasn’t a moment where I didn’t feel in control!
3. WHERE TO EAT
Arctic Bath’s restaurant is top tier for local Nordic cuisine and each dish is made thoughtfully and creatively. If you eat meat, trying reindeer is a must, it’s the most popular local meat source in Northern Sweden, and really delicious! Other treasures of the region include the honey, wild-caught fish, other game meats and foraged herbs and berries, which are all presented artfully. Special mention has to be made to the homemade bread and hazelnut butter—a genuine taste sensation and one of the best things I’ve ever tasted.
Other restaurants worth trying in the area include:
Tree Hotel restaurant also in Harads (also another very instagrammable place to stay!)
Bistron and Hemmagastronomi in Luleå.
4. WHAT TO PACK
Warm clothes, obviously! If you’ve never been somewhere with sub-zero temperatures (aside from the UK in a cold snap), you need to prepare yourself. Think thermals, snow boots and quality outerwear. This being said, the sun is still strong, so also be sure to bring a decent SPF for your face and lips. Also note that just because you’re wearing multiple layers, doesn’t mean you can’t look chic. I packed cosy cashmere knits, cargo pants and Moon Boots (when in Rome!) and wore them all. In the evening, dinner is fairly casual but it doesn’t mean you can’t make an effort. Just be sure to wrap up for the walk between your accommodation and the restaurant!
Packing Essentials:
