Inside Dario Vitale's Debut Versace Collection for S/S 26

(Image credit: Launchmetrics)

published 1 October 2025

Rooted in '80s bourgeois with a nod to Gianni Versace's '90s Miami Beach opulence, Dario Vitale's debut brought conversation-starting looks to Milan Fashion Week. The designer's first Versace collection ushered sex appeal and sensuality into fashion month with looks focused on embellished hot pants and gleaming metallic bra-and-skirt sets. Vibrant, off-kilter, conflicting colors signaled a shift in the tides and a swift change from neutrals to more dominant tones. Bourgeois fashion was reimagined and reinterpreted but considered the heritage of the Italian fashion house.

Though we have been anticipating the changing of the guard at fashion houses and discussing it in depth for spring/summer 2026, Versace was one of the first creative-director debuts of the season, and it signals a generational shift in fashion. In the collection, Vitale brought new ideas along with a moment of excitement and anticipation in Milan for what is next in fashion. Ahead, read more on the Versace S/S 26 collection.

Dario Vitale's Debut

Across fashion month for spring/summer 2026, there are upward of 15 designer debuts as new creative directors take the helm at some of the industry's biggest fashion houses. While there has been plenty of speculation about how the designer shake-ups would take hold this season, Vitale made a big impact with his first Versace collection. Vitale hails from Miu Miu, where he held the position of ready-to-wear design director and head of image, and he previously worked at Bottega Veneta under Tomas Maier. Vitale's vision for the Italian fashion brand is bold, cinematic, and fresh, and it's setting the tone for a new wave of change that will impact where style is headed next year.

Sex Appeal

Versace brought unabashed sex appeal to the runway in Milan. Metallic bra-and-skirt sets were unexpectedly paired with knit sweaters tied around the waist. Hot pants were topped off with knit sweaters and leather bomber jackets, and sheath dresses were sculpted to the body.

Conflicting Colors

Versace had a bourgeois '80s meets '90s Miami Beach palette, mixing shades such as lilac, butter yellow, kelly green, and cobalt in one look. The hues are conflicting and unintuitive, yet they work harmoniously together. We also saw these off-kilter color combinations at Prada and expect to see more bold shades for spring 2026 that cut through the neutrals that dominated in the age of quiet luxury and minimalism.

'80s Bourgeois Dressing

We've been discussing the rise of bourgeois style since Michael Rider's debut at Celine in July. Vitale mentioned the word "bourgeois" in his show notes and suggested that his version of Versace would offer a riff on the original interpretation by Gianni Versace. Vitale also mentioned that his interpretation was influenced by the '80s Versace clothing worn by his mother, which inspired the looks.

'90s Miami Beach Opulence

Of all of the Versace-isms, there was clear inspiration from Gianni Versace during his time in Miami Beach in the '90s. Vitale touched on the opulence, bold prints, and exuberance that defined that chapter for the Italian fashion house.

Kristen Nichols is the Associate Director, Special Projects at Who What Wear where she oversees luxury, runway content, and wedding features, and covers fashion within the luxury market, runway reporting, shopping features, trends, and interviews with leading industry experts. Kristen has worked with brands including Prada, Chanel, and Tiffany & Co., and her style has been featured in publications including Vogue.com, Vogue France, WWD, and the CFDA. Kristen began her career at Rodarte, where she worked on styling, photo shoots, and runway shows, and at Allure, where she moved into print and digital editorial. She graduated from the University of Southern California, where she studied art history and business, and currently lives in New York.