Classic, Elegant, Glamorous—Jacquemus Goes Grown-Up for Spring 2025

Simon Porte Jacquemus looked back to the 1950s for Jacquemus's spring/summer 2025 designs. The collection is named La Croisière, which is French for "cruise." The designer took inspiration from French and American fashion of the decade, infusing designs from the golden ages of couture and Hollywood red carpets alike. The ready-to-wear show took place during Haute Couture Week in Paris and had nods to couture—both in its salon-style format and in the clothes themselves. The intimate show was held in the art deco apartment of renowned French architect Auguste Perret, and there were just 40 guests in attendance, including Anna Wintour, Carla Bruni, Pamela Anderson, and Tina Kunakey.

The looks were a clear departure from resortwear and into a more grown-up realm. Classic and glamorous pieces hit the runway, including A-line silhouettes, animal-print opera coats, full-length leather gloves, and a polka-dot skirt finished with a dramatic train. With the much-discussed rise of elegant fashion, the momentum for polished and sophisticated style is set to continue. Ahead, read more on the Jacquemus S/S 25 collection.

Grown-Up Elegance

Jacquemus is known for destination shows in far-flung places featuring designs that reflect the environment: draped jersey and chiffon dresses in shades of pastel shown in Capri; head-to-toe crinkled linen on the sandy shores of Oahu; gauzy swathes of sheer fabrics along otherworldly salt mountains in the South of France. For its S/S 25 runway show—staged during Haute Couture Week—Jacquemus again embraced the setting with a couture-inspired collection.

The show was held in Paris in a wood-paneled apartment designed by architect Auguste Perret, which provided the backdrop for the salon-style show. The fashion, too, was inspired by couture with pieces that exhibit elegance and glamour and are decidedly more grown-up than past collections.

Inspiration From French Couture and Iconic American Style

The collection brought together the worlds of French and American style. According to an interview with Vogue, Jacquemus was thinking about the back-and-forth between French and American fashion after opening his stores in New York and L.A. as well as how Coco Chanel and Christian Dior led the charge for this many decades earlier. This inspired him to research old salon-style French couture shows and looks from iconic American actresses, including Marilyn Monroe. The references, looking back at '50s couture fashion and Hollywood, were reflected on the runway in the form of classic, elegant ensembles. However, pieces such as funnel-neck outerwear, sporty quarter-zip jackets, and suede sneakers lent a modern element.

Celebrity Attendees

The front row was packed with A-list celebrities, including Pamela Anderson, Carla Bruni, Tina Kunakey, and Tyla. Their outfits included a range of signature Jacquemus pieces. Anderson wore a full A-line skirt, a collared shirt, pumps, and a clutch, which were a nod to some of the looks in the just-debuted collection.