The '80s Trend You Feared Is Making a Major Comeback This Spring
Everywhere we look, the '80s are having a renaissance. From bold maximalist earrings and chunky bangles to nipped-waist blazers and structured tweed jackets, it's hard to outrun the decade's excess aesthetic right now. And while some items have been more readily accepted by the masses, others are still considered shocking news in 2023.
Once such pot-stirring style is bubble hems, and I'm sorry to say it, but they too are about to make a major comeback. We saw the first inklings of their return in the 2023 collections with several bubble-hem skirts and dresses from Khaite and Prada, but for spring 2024, designers went full-force on the voluminous silhouettes, so consider this your official warning: No matter your personal feelings on them, you're going to be seeing a lot more of the balloon-like shapes at the turn of the year.
I don't blame you if you associate the floofy shapes with an awkward middle-school dance or the wardrobe in 13 Going on 30, but I can assure you that the styles coming down the pipeline are much more sophisticated than they are retro. At Schiaparelli and Altuzarra, two-piece skirt sets were given the puffed-up treatment for maximum drama, but at Bally and Bottega Veneta, bubble hems came in the form of softer draping on dresses and skirts. Personally, I love the look of a bubble hem on a minidress with tights and heels for a holiday ensemble, but regardless, I'm sharing all the runway and influencer imagery of the trend so you can see for yourself.
Khaite S/S 23 was the first time I recall seeing bubble hems in a way that I didn't completely hate. In fact, the soft satin fabric the designer chose for this immediately made the pieces feel approachable, and the sleek styling with minimalist pieces made them look downright chic.
While an haute couture collection rarely translates to an everyday wardrobe, I love how this particular look showcases the drama of the '80s silhouette. And who could forget how pregnant Sienna Miller stunned in the look when she wore it on the red carpet at Vogue World: London.
Riffing on the pillars of balletcore, this combination of a bubble hem and ballet flats is sublime.
Altuzarra doubled down on the bubble-hem trend, sending out multiple iterations in its S/S 24 show that ranged from this exuberant tube dress to satin skirt sets.
Bottega Veneta took a softer approach with this look that features a gathered bubble-hem midi skirt and simple Henley tee.
Wearing bubble hems is all about contrasting their volume with a slim-fitting pair of tights or leggings like this.
Bally's take on bubble hems is decidedly more low-key, combining a gathered minidress and simple riding boots.
New York–based label Aknvas showed support for the '80s movement with this striking red minidress in its S/S 24 show.
When styling a voluminous skirt, keep things streamlined on top with something simple.
The way MSGM styled a bubble-hem skirt with a structured blazer is, to me, S/S 24 perfection.
When you mix '90s minimalism with the trend—like Altuzarra did here for its S/S 24 show—it makes it much more elevated.
Gen Zers are styling their bubble hems with athletic sneakers for a cool contrast.
Anna is an NYC-based senior fashion editor who has been a member of the Who What Wear team for over seven years, having begun her career in L.A. at brands like Michael Kors and A.L.C. As an editor, she has earned a reputation for her coverage of breaking trends, emerging brands, luxury shopping curations, fashion features, and more. Anna has penned a number Who What Wear cover interviews, including Megan Fox, Julia Garner, and Lilly Collins. She also leads the site’s emerging travel vertical that highlights all things travel and lifestyle through a fashion-person lens.
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