As someone who has primarily worn her hair in protective styles over the past few years, I've recently found myself itching for new ways to wear my natural coils without damaging them. I'll forever be grateful for my natural hair texture and its versatility, but I can't help but experiment with my go-to styles from time to time. I recently began wearing my hair in silk presses and immediately discovered how much more time and upkeep it took to leave my hair looking presentable when I didn't have an extra hour in the morning to quell frizz.
Around that time, I also began to see hints of a new hair movement on TikTok among the natural-hair community: individuals with natural curls and coils who prefer to wear their hair straight without altering their texture permanently (which, of course, is not without debate). To understand what it truly means to be a "straight natural," I tapped a curl expert to give me some insight into the growing trend.
The Natural-Hair Movement Evolution
If you're wondering what all the hype and debate around one of TikTok's biggest natural-hair movements is, you're not alone. "Straight natural" can mean a myriad of things and applies to various methods of styling and haircare. According to Lush's Afro-hair specialist Sarah Sango, it "refers to individuals with curly, coily, or textured hair who prefer to wear it straight without using chemical treatments." Instead, they opt for heated styling tools (such as blow-dryers, flat irons, and curling tongs).
She also tells us these tools are used at lower temperatures to minimize heat damage, which allows for hair to maintain its natural curl pattern when a curly style is desired. It's also worth noting, however, that the term "heat-trained" is commonly used in the natural-hair community to describe a technique that loosens or stretches curl patters over time with repeated heat styling, reducing styling time while still allowing for versatility.
A common misconception about using heat styling on curls and coils is that they'll immediately be damaged. Not only is it possible to temporarily straighten natural hair using heat without causing damage (by keeping the temperature low and limiting how often heat styling is done), but also, going straight doesn't immediately mean heat must be used. "The conversation around the 'straight natural' movement highlights the complexity of personal identity, hair history, and societal beauty standards," Sango says. "Much of the miscommunication and debate of social media stems from varying perspectives on what it means to be natural."
The "Straight Natural" Debate
Over the past few years, we've witnessed a renewed interest in the natural hair movement over major social media platforms. Sango credits this for further empowering individuals (particularly those of African descent) to "embrace and celebrate their curly and coil-textured hair while challenging traditional beauty standards and promoting self-acceptance." For Sango, it's also why there's disagreement among those within the natural-hair community, as some oppose the concept of "straight natural."
According to Sango, the introduction of "straight natural" into the natural hair movement has sparked conversations about whether it aligns with the original intent of the movement or if it shifts its meaning. "Encouraging open, respectful discussions where individuals feel heard and understood is key. At the heart of it all, embracing one’s natural beauty—however that looks—is what truly matters," she says.
Sango's view also differs from what's been widely circulated in the community as the movement's recognized goals, and she was willing to share more. "I see 'straight naturals' as simply embracing the versatility of their hair. Choosing to straighten it may be a matter of convenience rather than a rejection of natural texture," she says. "Ultimately, curly, coily, and textured hair is our crown, and it should be worn in a way that allows us to express ourselves and feel empowered!"
Becoming a "Straight Natural"
Whether you're getting regular silk presses from a stylist or accomplishing it at home, there are some helpful ways to keep your strands strong during and after the process. Sango recommends limiting heat use, avoiding daily heat styling to minimize the number of passes over each section to prevent damage. When using heat, keep your temperatures low (no more that 356°F) and blow-dry on medium heat to protect hair health.
Additionally, protecting your hair overnight is crucial for keeping hair healthy and extending the wear time of your favorite styles. Sango tells us the best way to lock in moisture and keep styles overnight is by sleeping with a satin or silk bonnet, which reduces the need for frequent heat styling. Rather than depending entirely on hot tools, consider investing in heat-free stretching methods. "Opt for roller sets to stretch hair instead of blow-drying, minimizing direct heat exposure," she says.
While its certainly tempting to spend hours scrolling through inspirational "straight natural" styles of TikTok, Sango recommends creating a well-rounded haircare routine that strengthens and protects hair. "Incorporate protein-based products, and always use a heat protectant to reinforce hair structure and prevent damage," she explains. That way, you'll always have a lineup of products that can address your unique concerns.
If you're not sure where to start with your shopping, scroll on to see which haircare products Sango swears by to support the health of heat-trained hair (plus 10 picks I use on the daily for my straight styles).
Shop Sango's Healthy-Hair Favorites
Key Ingredients: soybean, witch hazel extract, agave, rice vinegar, olive, fruit juice, silken tofu
"Soft, creamy shampoo of agave syrup and shine-enhancing rice vinegar will revive your strands from root to tip, containing a high protein content and heaps of vitamins to restore the natural luster of your hair." — Sango
Customer Review: "I was looking for a shampoo that would give my hair and scalp moisture and not frizz out my hair. This shampoo does both! Just after the first wash I noticed a difference in my hair. It’s shinier, softer, and goes longer between washes. I do lather it in my hands a bit more before adding it to my head and I find I use a reasonable amount of product"
Key Ingredients: water, maple syrup, tonka absolute, sweet potato purée, olive oil, vanilla absolute, almond oil
"Power is a smooth reparative conditioner that gets to the root of your hair’s moisture must-haves, packed with hydrolyzed wheat protein for strength and ethyl macadamiate to help your curls beat the heat." — Sango
Customer Review: "I bought this ages ago and forgot I had it! I tried it for the first time last night alongside the tofu shampoo and omg, my hair feels so clean, smooth and silky! I have very thick, dry, coarse hair and this has really tamed it! I never review products but I am impressed!"
Key Ingredients: litsea cubeba, almond milk, lemon juice, vanilla absolute, coconut milk, olive oil, oat milk
"Soft, creamy shampoo of agave syrup, and shine-enhancing rice vinegar will revive your strands from root to tip, containing a high protein content and heaps of vitamins to restore the natural luster of your hair." — Sango
Customer Review: "I’ve been using the Super Milk hair primer for the last couple months, and I’m in love with the formula and the smell. The spray leaves my hair soft for at least a couple of days. I need an entire product line for the scent because it smells like sweet perfection!"
Editor-Approved "Straight Natural" Must-Haves
Key Ingredients: agave extract, argan oil, UV filter
Use this lightweight, sulfate-free shampoo to cleanse and detangle tresses while also preparing them for thermal styling. Its formula is infused with agave nectar to restore dry hair to its healthiest state and argan oil to protect against damage and split ends and combat humidity. Plus, the shampoo is beautifully scented with notes of juicy mandarin and sparkling pink grapefruit.
Customer Review: "I have been looking for the right sulfate free shampoo for my silk presses. This shampoo has won me over. It lathers really well, smells good and my scalp and hair feel so clean and it doesn’t dry out my hair like other shampoos!"
Key Ingredients: amaranth seed extract, biomimetic five-oil blend, hemisqualane
Of all the hair oils I've gotten my hands on over the course of my career as a beauty editor, Living Proof's No Frizz Vanishing Oil is one of my favorites for my straight styles. This one is formulated with amaranth seed extract, a blend of nourishing oils, and shine-inducing hemisqualane for frizz-free, shiny hair. It works especially well because its formulated without heavy silicones.
Customer Review: "I absolutely love this hair serum! It is so light and doesn't leave a residue on my hair or leave it feeling oily. I notice a huge difference when using it compared to leaving my ends bare. It's such a light scent with the oil that it's not competing with my perfume. Oiling my ends has become a non-negotiable now!"
Key Ingredients: roucou oil
Another lightweight hair oil I've been loving lately is the Oi Oil. It promotes softness and strength in your tresses while detangling, reducing frizz, and adding shine. Designed with all hair textures in mind (but especially helpful for those with coarse, dry hair), the hair oil is powered by beta-carotene and antioxidants from roucou oil.
Customer Review: "I’m new to using hair oils and I’m glad I decided to start with this product. It has great ingredients that strengthen my hair. I apply 2-3 pumps after i shower and proceed to drying my hair. It gives me a nice soft look with great shine."
Key Ingredients: proprietary tri-polymer complex, hydrolyzed keratin, glycerin
An anti-frizz treatment that works remarkably well for heat-trained strands is Color Wow's Dream Coat Anti-Frizz Treatment. (Yes, there's now a version for curly hair.) It's a must for bringing back bounce and shine to your curls after straightening them thanks a formula containing the brand's patented tri-polymer complex, repairing hydrolyzed keratin, and hydrating glycerin.
Customer Review: "My natural hair is wavy with frizz if I air dry without product. With this stuff, I can create beautiful, soft curls that hold together without frizz. I’ve tried several products and this truly is the best one. You do need a lot of it and it should be sprayed on fairly evenly."
Key Ingredients: crambe abyssinica seed oil, sunflower oil, jojoba oil
When you're ready to apply heat to your hair, make sure you're doing the necessary prep for stunning results with a heat protectant. This one by Pattern uses a lightweight, non-greasy formula to protect curls and coils from heat damage without weighing them down. The nourishing blend of oils also smells incredible and leaves hair with a healthy-looking sheen.
Customer Review: "I love how lightweight this heat protectant is on my hair! It is so easy to spray it on before using a blow dryer or straightener. It is lightly scented and smells very lovely. My hair looks and feels great when I use this. I received this complimentary from pattern beauty."
Key Ingredients: keratin, specialty lipopeptide, rice protein, tara tree fruit extract, sunflower sprout
I like to think of this one as a raincoat for your strands against moisture since it uses keratin to seal and repair damaged cuticles, while specialty lipopeptide combats frizz. Additionally, a mixture of rice protein, tara tree fruit extract, and sunflower sprout keeps the hair protected against color fading and UV ray damage.
Customer Review: "Game-changer if you struggle with frizzy hair. I applied it all over my damp hair after showering before styling. I styled my hair with a blowdryer and my hair was noticeably less frizzy at the root (that's where I usually have the most frizz) I have been incorporating this product into my hair wash routine!"
Key Ingredients: Tsubaki Meadows (Tsubaki seed oil and meadfoam seed oil), acacia senegal gum, panthenol
Your search for the perfect finishing spray is over. This one, by Crown Affair, is a favorite of mine because it's made a noticeable difference in how long my straight styles (particularly silk presses) last. Alcohol- and aerosol-free, this hair spray offers flexible hold to set styled hair while adding sleek, subtle shine to the strands. The best part? It does't leave a sticky film behind.
Customer Review: "I love this finishing spray from Crown Affair. Makes my hair shiny. It makes it easy to style with adequate hold for my beachy waves style. It doesn’t have alcohol so I don’t worry about my hair drying. It also helps protect my hair from heat damage. It smells good too! Overall, I am very pleased and would recommend to my friends."
Key Ingredients: vitamin C, UV protectant complex, Brazilian pracaxi oil
When I straighten my hair at home, I like to finish my style with Drybar's Sparkling Soda Shine Mist & UV Shield. Infused with vitamin C in its quick-dry formula, this ultrafine mist always gives my hair healthy-looking shine. It also offers protection against UV rays and environmental aggressors.
Customer Review: "I have been obsessing over the sleek shine it gives my hair for weeks now! I love how lightweight it feels on my hair and the gorgeous shine it brings. Imagine a glow from within look but for your hair. I will be purchasing immediately!"
Key Ingredients: citric acid + 7% bonding care complex (shampoo), citric acid + 11% bonding care complex (conditioner)
Infused with a powerful acidic bonding concentrate, the Acidic Bonding Concentrate Shampoo and Conditioner Set by Redken is a dynamic duo that repairs my damaged hair with salon-level quality. While the shampoo's formula reinforces the hair cuticle, the conditioner delivers intense moisture to dry, weak hair.
Customer Review: "After only 2 washes with both the conditioner and shampoo my curly/wavy hair is less frizzy, feels lighter, softer, and the appearance is less dull. I'm so happy and excited about these producs and will continue with this as my hair wash routine!"
Key Ingredients: glicoamine (patented technology to detoxify metal particles found in water)
Last, I like to style my silk presses with lightweight, leave-in styling cream for body and volume. Not only is it deeply moisturizing, but it also protects hair against harsh metals, UV-ray damage, and heat damage from styling tools. It's also lightly scented with clean and refreshing notes of lemon and mandarin against a base of musky woods.
Customer Review: "The leave in repair styling cream is great. I like the smell of it and that it didn’t leave my hair feeling greasy or weighed down. Being that it protects against heat from tools is a huge plus since I do straighten my hair. It left my hair feeling smooth and shiny."
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