I Needed a Skincare Reset in My 40s—Here’s What a Celebrity Esthetician Recommended

When I hit 40, my skincare routine started feeling, well, off. The cleansers I once loved were leaving me dry, my go-to moisturizers seemed less effective, and my face had a dullness I couldn’t quite fix, no matter how many resurfacing masks I slathered on. I soon realized the problem wasn’t with the products, it was me. I was confirmed to be in perimenopause, and was starting to see everything that I’d written about the past few years (loss of collagen, rapid hydration loss) happening to me in real time. Unfortunately, I can’t stop time (or gravity), but I could try a skincare reset.

Enter Renée Rouleau. If you’re even vaguely into skincare, then you’re already familiar with this beauty legend. As the celebrity esthetician behind the glowing faces of clients like Sabrina Carpenter and Demi Lovato, she’s known for her personalized, no-fluff approach to skin. I’ve admired her work for years, and I finally found myself (and my skin) in her hands during her recent L.A. visit to celebrate her new Pro partnership with Candace Marino of The L.A. Facialist. In the words of my spiritual advisors, this was divine timing.

Keep reading for five over-40 skincare tips I learned from the one and only Renée Rouleau.

1. SPF Is Everything—and You're Probably Doing It Wrong (I Know I Was)

Rouleau is on a mission to get people to use sunscreen correctly, but her advice isn’t the typical “use a shot glass's worth of SPF daily” tip we often hear. “Sunscreen is the most biologically active anti-aging product in the world,” she says. But the problem is most of us aren’t applying enough—or we’re compromising it with other products that dilute its power. For example, she has some beef with tinted moisturizer, but it’s completely justified. She says that if you are using the three-in-one product, which ultimately is viewed as a light foundation, you may not put enough of it on, or blend it all away!

“Your sunscreen can be your moisturizer,” Rouleau stresses. “It has humectants. It’s creamy. It just also happens to have SPF.” Her tip? Layer. Use a dedicated SPF moisturizer in the morning, then layer with foundation for added protection. “Foundation acts like a second physical barrier," she says. "Think of it as an insurance policy for preventing pigment, which is sure to come.”

2. Get Started on "Pigment Management"

Speaking of unwanted pigmentation, not taking the proper steps to prevent it is a majorly common, over-40 skincare mistake, according to Rouleau. “Pigment management needs to start now,” she warns. “They may start to see some pigmentation in their 40s, but those spots are really going to start to show in their 50s. So, if you can start paying attention to it now, that's going to help from a preventative standpoint.”

Her game plan? Get serious about vitamin C (specifically THD ascorbate, the stable, gentle version that's described by Rouleau as the “gold standard”), acids, and retinoids, and consider starting light in-office treatments like peels or lasers. Just don’t wait until it’s too late—you want to manage, not play catch-up.

3. Ditch the Facial Sprays

Another big thing that can screw up your SPF game? Facial sprays. I know. I love them, too. Despite my slightly aggressive headline up there, I don’t think you need to completely give them up. That said, I’ll still take Rouleau’s warning about misting your face during the daytime to heart. “You’re just dissolving your sunscreen.”

4. Bacteria Can't Break You Out If It Can't Survive

As estrogen declines, our skin loses elasticity, gets drier, and yes, hormonal acne can make a comeback. One of the most effective ways to prevent breakouts is to create a skin environment where bad bacteria are less likely to thrive. “You want to reduce what’s called the bad bacteria, so look for products that have antimicrobial properties,” says Rouleau. Adding prevention-focused treatments into your routine—like her Rapid Response Detox Masque—is key.

5. "Glass Skin" Is More Than What You Think It Is

“Glass skin” is a phrase that’s been living in the minds rent-free of skincare nerds the past few years, but it’s not just about having a super-moisturized, plump, and dewy complexion. Rouleau believes in four components to achieving glass skin: hydration, yes, but also good circulation, tackling discoloration, and getting a smooth-as-glass texture. “You can’t just hydrate your way to glass skin, is what I’m trying to preach to the world,” she says.

After talking to Rouleau, I’m more than convinced that over-40 skin doesn’t need more steps—it just needs smarter ones. And let’s just say, me and my mature, menopausal skin are now officially *sat* for her advice.

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